Em Spills the Tea

A twenty-something year old Asian Aussie navigating her way through the chaos of life.

Solo Road Trip in New Zealand: 16-Days in South Island

Hooker Valley Trail, Mount Cook National Park

Before I begin, here’s a disclaimer: this is not a travel guide. There are plenty of helpful blog posts like that on the interwebs already. This is just a mere window into some of the most incredible days of my life, and if it inspires you to plan your own trip to South Island, New Zealand, let me know!

If you don’t have time to read through the post, just watch this video I made and you’ll understand why I fell in love with this place (watch in HD) ❤️

Prologue.

In May 2022, after an incredibly stressful three years, I finally submitted all 600+ pages of my PhD thesis. Whilst I waited for comments from my examiners, I knew I needed to take a break and go somewhere, anywhere, but somewhere.

New Zealand had never really been on my radar at that point, but my husband (boyfriend at the time) mentioned his own desire to travel there due to the incredible scenery. The more I learned about the country and its divine landscapes, particularly South Island (Māori: Te Waipounamu), the more deeply I felt drawn to it.

At first, going solo wasn’t my intention. With a narrow two-month window to make the trip happen, none of my closest friends could join me. I’d almost accepted it was a lost cause. But a voice inside kept telling me I needed to go, even if it meant going alone. To this day, it is one of the best decisions I have ever made.

Ironically, I wasn’t really troubled by the thought of traveling, driving, or hiking by myself in a foreign country. What actually scared me was telling my very risk-averse mother about the trip. So like any good Asian daughter (not) – I booked the flight first and told her after. Let’s just say I lived to tell the tale. Full credit to my mum though. Since then, she has been more understanding of my adventurous spirit (I went on a second solo trip to New Zealand in November 2023).

I’ll write more about how I fell in love with the beauty of solo traveling another time. This post is simply my way of paying it forward. When I started planning my 16-day adventure, I was completely overwhelmed by all the information on the internet. But thanks to my dear friend, Julian, who sat me down, walked me through his own itinerary, and shared his insights about various locations and activities, my trip transformed from an endless list of must-sees into a personal journey that has changed my life for the better.

Note: All photos featured in this post were taken by myself.

My Vision for the Journey.

Before I dive into my itinerary, I think it’s important to clarify my vision for the trip. This will give context behind my choices and recommendations. You can then decide if they resonate with your own vision of a South Island adventure.

Activities

These were my guideposts for my itinerary:

  • Epic, scenic hikes—ones long enough to feel challenging but short enough to avoid overnight mountain hut stays (a thought that has since changed after exploring the Swiss and Italian Alps).
  • Heart-racing, adrenaline-filled activities to add an adventurous edge.
  • Quiet, unstructured moments to simply relax, read, journal, and breathe it all in.
  • Driving through awe-inspiring landscapes, with the freedom to stop anywhere that caught my eye.

Accommodation

In terms of my choice of accommodation, my trip happened only a few months after New Zealand finally opened their borders after the COVID-19 international travel ban. Back then, COVID-19 testing before departure, on arrival, and 7 days after arrival were still mandatory, and quarantine rules were in place if you tested positive. I didn’t want to run the risk of catching COVID-19 from staying in shared hostel rooms, so I opted to pay for private rooms in motels, hotels, and AirBNBs. That obviously increased costs substantially. However, just know you can definitely find fantastic hostel options, especially the YHAs!

Transport

I know you’re definitely thinking this, so I’ll just say it—yes, it is possible to explore South Island without a car. The petrol prices there are no joke 😳. Luckily, options like Kiwi Hop-On Hop-Off Bus Passes and plenty of private tours make car-free travel doable. But in my honest opinion, to truly experience the magic of South Island, hiring a car (or campervan, if that’s your vibe) is definitely the way to go. With a car, you can reach hidden spots, venture out for sunrise or sunset hikes, and have the freedom to pull over anytime a stunning view grabs your attention. So in the end, I booked a rental car.

As with most car hire situations, selecting the same pick-up and drop-off location tends to be cheaper. However, with a desire to maximise time for adventure, I paid the premium to hire the car from Christchurch and dropped it off at Queenstown. I even paid this premium as a solo traveller, so you can imagine the bill was hefty (about AU$2,800 for 16 days). But it was definitely the best decision I made for the trip. Personally, I suggest hiring a 4WD/AWD, as it allows you to access trails on unsealed roads more safely.

Is it worth getting insurance for the car? I go through this debate every single time I book a hire car. Truthfully, both times in New Zealand, I paid for full cover since I was travelling solo and both times, I needed to report damage to the car. Thankfully, I didn’t need to pay any excess. Stray rocks on unsealed roads are bound to chip the windscreen (also happened to us in the Italian Alps). The second time I accidentally broke the interior latch for the boot cover… that was just user error.

Side note: I have never tried this, but there are some hire companies that allow you to hire cars and campervans for much cheaper if you help them move the car from North to South Island. Maybe something to look into if you’re keen to also explore North Island and want to save some money.

My Itinerary

Without further ado, here is how I spent 16 days exploring the beautiful landscapes of South Island. I visited between May 20th – June 4th in 2022, which is the end of autumn and official start of winter in New Zealand. Later in this post, I share my thoughts about whether this is a good time/season to visit (spoiler alert: absolutely YES!!!)

This is an overview of where I spent time each day. Over time, I will write more about my unique experiences at each location.

Day 1: Fly from Sydney to Christchurch

The adventure begins.

Day 1

Main activities:

  • Afternoon flight from Sydney to Christchurch
  • Picked up rental car from the airport
  • Stayed the night in a motel (Bealey Quarter) in Christchurch

Em’s Tips:

  • Best seat on the plane: If you are flying into Christchurch from Sydney, book a window seat on the right side of the plane. You will be blessed with the most magnificent view of Mount Cook (Māori: Aoraki). I didn’t know this and I sat on the left side of the plane, but I was still blessed with breathtaking views.
  • Stay the night or drive to the first location? I arrived in Christchurch around 6pm, and because the sun sets around 5:30pm in May, I decided to stay the night in the city. If you catch an earlier flight, it is definitely possible to drive to Lake Tekapo the same day but bear in mind it takes 3 to 3.5 hours by car!
  • Christchurch: Personally, I had no desire to explore Christchurch, so I did not allocate any time to explore the city. If big small towns are your vibe though, you might like to spend a day or two here, but this girl had some mountains to climb!
  • Rental car: I hired a car from Hertz because the pick-up location was within the airport. The convenience is a premium I am happy to pay for. Of course, there are other car hire companies with terminal pick-up locations which you might like to consider (e.g., EziCar, Budget, Avis).
Views from the left side of the plane en route from Sydney to Christchurch.

Day 2 & 3: Lake Tekapo

The real adventure begins. I spent Days 2 and 3 of my trip at Lake Tekapo, my third favourite city/town in the world. Lake Tekapo itself is a stunning glacial lake known for its vibrant turquoise waters, surrounded by picturesque snow-capped mountains (in the winter months). The town is a perfect tranquil retreat for those seeking peaceful solitude and unparalleled stargazing.

Day 2

Main activities:

  • Drove from Christchurch to Lake Tekapo
  • Paid a visit to Astro Cafe, a cafe at the summit of Mount John which overlooks Lake Tekapo’s gorgeous turquoise waters
  • Guided stargazing tour with Dark Sky Project in the late evening
  • Stayed the night at an Airbnb in Lake Tekapo

Em’s Tips:

  • The driving route: The drive from Christchurch to Lake Tekapo is approximately 3 to 3.5 hours. On the way to Lake Tekapo, be sure to stop at Fairlie Bakehouse for a pie! If you’re not in a rush, there are also plenty of other stops along the way if you take the scenic inland route.
  • Astro Cafe: You need to pay a toll (approx. NZD$8) to access the road up to Astro Cafe. When I visited in 2022, the cafe was only open from Friday to Monday. Although, google suggests that they may be open every day now. Check before you go!
  • Stargazing tour: Lake Tekapo is located within the Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve, renowned for its stunningly clear night skies. Whilst you can see some incredible views looking up at the night sky from Lake Tekapo town, nothing comes close to the otherworldly experience of exploring the cosmos through a guided stargazing tour. I chose to book with Dark Sky Project, as their tour grants access to New Zealand’s only professional research observatory, and I opted for their Summit Experience. Highly recommend — it was totally worth the investment (AU$149 in 2022) and was one of my favourite activities from the entire trip. Although… some factors both within and beyond your control need to work in your favour for an optimal experience. More on this in another post. If stargazing is on your agenda, I recommend staying the night at Lake Tekapo.
  • Tekapo Springs: I didn’t have time to visit Tekapo Springs, but if hiking is not your vibe, you might like to check out the hot spring!
Panoramic views over Lake Tekapo, taken a short walk away from Astro Cafe.

Day 3

Main activities:

Em’s Tips:

  • Mount John Summit Circle Track: This trail leads to the summit of Mount John, the same location as the stargazing tour and also Astro cafe. If you want to see something different, consider other hiking trails around Lake Tekapo. Note that it can be really windy at the summit at that time of year, so dress appropriately!
Forest section of the hike
Views from the summit
Church of the Good Shepherd

Day 4: Mount Cook

I only spent one day there, but Mount Cook has easily become my favourite place in the entire world. Mount Cook itself is New Zealand’s highest peak, standing at 3,724m. The Mount Cook region is renowned for its stunning alpine beauty, dramatic landscapes, glaciers, and crystal-clear skies. There are plenty of walking tracks for people with varying fitness levels, but even if you simply visit the valley, you will not be disappointed. I always recommend Mount Cook when anyone asks me for South Island recommendations. This is your sign to go there.

Day 4

Main activities:

  • Drove from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook
  • Late afternoon “hike” (more like a nature walk) through the Hooker Valley Track (10km, 3 hour return, 124m elevation change)
  • Stayed the night at Aoraki Court Motel

Em’s Tips:

  • The driving route: Without stopping, the journey should take approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. But let me tell you. This is probably one of the most breathtaking drives in New Zealand. I stopped at least 6 times along the way. When you turn the corner from Lake Tekapo around Lake Pukaki, I guarantee your jaw will drop. I suggest you allocate some extra time to make a pitstop at the Mount Cook Alpine Salmon Shop and also enjoy Lake Pukaki (there are many beautiful viewpoints along the way).
  • Hooker Valley Track: An easy, mostly flat 10km return track that follows the Hooker Valley floor to Hooker Lake. It generally takes 3 hours to complete, but I would definitely allow extra time for pictures on the suspension bridge and the famous boardwalk. You might also like to enjoy a snack at the glacial lake. Both times that I have visited, I have gone in the late afternoon to avoid the crowds. For more information, check out GirlEatWorld’s blogpost.
  • Accommodation: Mount Cook (Aoraki) National Park has very limited accommodation options, they book out very early, and they are considerably pricier than the rest of South Island. Choose Hermitage Hotel if you’re looking for something extra nice. Otherwise, Aoraki Court Motel is very comfortable for couples, and the YHA (Youth Hostel) is a dream for solo travellers.
  • Food: There are no grocery stores at Mount Cook. I repeat, there are no grocery stores at Mount Cook, so make sure you bring some groceries, are willing to spend a dime at the Hermitage Hotel, or check in advance if your accommodation offers room service. A friend had to learn this the hard way… haha.
  • Other gems in Mount Cook: As I only allocated one day to Mount Cook for this trip, I didn’t have time to hike to Mueller’s Hut (one of my favourite all day/overnight tracks), nor visit Tasman Lake. You could easily squeeze in Tasman Lake and River Track if you plan well.
Famous boardwalk on Hooker Valley Trail
Views from Hooker Lake
Hooker Valley Trail

Day 5: Clay Cliffs & Wanaka

On Day 5, it was time to say a very difficult goodbye to Mount Cook, but an exciting hello to beautiful Wanaka! But first, en route to Wanaka, I made an unplanned detour (best part of solo travelling) to the Clay Cliffs in Omarama.

The Clay Cliffs are a striking natural formation of steep, jagged pinnacles and spires made of clay and gravel. Worth visiting if interesting geological formations are your vibe, otherwise you can head straight to Wanaka and enjoy what the town has to offer.

Wanaka is a captivating town that exudes a vibrant, lively energy, perfectly complementing the serene charm of Lake Tekapo and Mount Cook. If I ever achieve my dream of moving to the South Island, Wanaka would be my top choice for a place to call home.

Day 5

Main activities:

  • Morning coffee at Hermitage Hotel
  • Drove from Mount Cook towards Wanaka
  • Made a pitstop at the Clay Cliffs in Omarama
  • Arrived at Lake Wanaka for sunset (unfortunately it was very overcast)
  • Stayed the night at an Airbnb in Wanaka

Em’s Tips:

  • Hermitage Hotel: Even if you don’t stay overnight at Hermitage Hotel, I recommend having a coffee on the deck and soaking in the serene surrounding of Hooker Valley before you head off on your next adventure.
  • The driving route: The drive from Mount Cook directly to Wanaka takes approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. However, plan extra time for pitstops along Lake Pukaki (it’s so hard to say goodbye to the glorious mountain and lake views at Mount Cook), and additional time if you also plan to visit the Clay Cliffs.
  • Accessing the Clay Cliffs: To reach the Clay Cliffs, turn onto Quailburn Rd off SH8 and then drive onto unsealed Henburn Rd. I suggest you only attempt this if you have a 4WD/AWD. Note that it is located on private property and you need to pay a donation (NZD$5) at the gate! From memory, there was no reception once you arrive at the Clay Cliffs.
  • Things to do in Wanaka: I decided to just spend the late afternoon meditating at Lake Wanaka, but you could easily visit That Wanaka Tree for pictures instead! When I visited, it was nearly winter so the tree stood bare, stripped of its beautiful leaves. Yet, this starkness lent it an enigmatic vibe that was spectacular in its own unique way. Depending on the time of year, you might also consider visiting The Wanaka Lavender Farm.
Coffee at Hermitage Hotel
Entrance to the Clay Cliffs

Day 6 & 7: Wanaka

Days 6 and 7 of my trip were dedicated to exploring the Wanaka region. While Wanaka boasts a diverse array of attractions—ranging from its vibrant art scene and boutique stores to a charming lavender farm and more—my main focus was hiking its breathtaking landscapes.

Day 6

Main activities:

  • Hiked Roy’s Peak (16km, 5-6 hours return, 1.2km elevation gain)
  • Afternoon visit to That Wanaka Tree
  • Stayed a second night in an Airbnb in Wanaka

Em’s Tips:

  • Roy’s Peak:
    • Roy’s peak is amazing at sunrise, but since this was my first time solo travelling, I wasn’t game enough to hike at 3am alone. Instead, I started my hike around 8-9am and it took about 5-6 hours including two snack breaks.
    • Roy’s Peak was easily the hardest hike I went on during this trip, even harder than Ben Lomond. It wasn’t because the Roy’s Peak hike was physically hard (of course, it was still challenging). It was actually because I completely overpacked my backpack. I had packed my mirrorless camera, a full-frame tripod, 2L of water, a fleece hoodie, a snowboard jacket, fruit and snacks, and bizarrely, my reading glasses!!! My backpack weighed over 7kg… you can imagine climbing up those relentless switchbacks was absolute torture. Thankfully, I now know how to pack my hiking backpack more effectively, and know to check all the pockets, before ascending steep terrains. I will create a post on this sometime!
    • Here’s a helpful blogpost from My Queenstown Diary with more information on the hiking trail.

Admittedly, I did not end up hiking Roy’s Peak solo. When I arrived at the carpark, I bumped into a Spanish gentleman who was also hiking the trail alone. We ended up hiking together and had some wonderful conversations about the meaning of life. He was the one that taught me dried fruits and nuts are a fantastic, energy-dense snack perfect for hikes and I still remember this every time I prepare for a hike.

That Wanaka Tree
Roy’s Peak (but not the actual summit)
The final ascent to the summit of Roy’s Peak

Day 7

Main activities:

  • Hiked Rob Roy Glacier Track (10km, 3-4 hour return, 500m elevation gain)
  • Returned in time for sunset at Lake Wanaka
  • Stayed a third night in an Airbnb in Wanaka

Em’s Tips:

  • Rob Roy Glacier Track:
    • This track is located about 2 hours away from Wanaka, in Mount Aspiring National Park. I ended up on this trail by chance. While I was hiking Roy’s Peak, an impressively fit 65 year old couple that I crossed paths with mentioned I had to visit the track if I had a 4WD (this detail is important).
    • I would only attempt this trail if you have a 4WD. You will need to drive through unsealed roads over endless cattle guards, pass through narrow one-way roads, as well as several shallow streams called fords that require skillful maneuvering.
    • Something I wish I’d known before heading out was that there’s absolutely no reception during the last hour of the drive to the trailhead—or on the hiking trail itself! If you’re going to attempt this solo, let someone know you’ll be off grid so they don’t panic when they can’t reach you. My mum almost called the police when I didn’t reply after 8 hours… oops.
    • More information on the Rob Roy Glacier Trail can be found in this blogpost from GirlEatWorld.
Rob Roy Glacier!

Day 8: Te Anau

The next stop on my journey was Te Anau, often referred to as the gateway to Fiordland National Park. While the town itself is undeniably beautiful, with its serene waters, lush forests, and striking mountain scenery, I primarily used it as a base for exploring Milford Sound and didn’t spend much time delving into all that Te Anau had to offer.

Before reaching Te Anau from Wanaka, I made a pitstop at Arrowtown, a delightful, historic gold mining town in South Island. In autumn, the streets of Arrowtown are lined with a carpet of crunchy amber and gold leaves, creating a perfect backdrop for stunning photos!

Day 8

Main activities:

  • Drove from Wanaka towards Te Anau
  • Made a pitstop at Arrowtown
  • Arrived at Te Anau in time for dinner from Bao Now (previously a food truck, now called Ditto)
  • Stayed the night at an Airbnb in Te Anau

Em’s Tips:

  • The driving route: The drive from Wanaka to Te Anau takes approximately 3 hours. To break up the trip, I made a pitstop at Arrowtown and spent about 2 hours strolling through the quaint main street, lined with preserved 19th-century buildings, boutique shops, and cafes.
  • Te Anau: If you’re interested in exploring Te Anau itself, the town offers plenty of scenic walking tracks. However, in hindsight, after experiencing the breathtaking beauty of Milford Sound, I could have skipped Te Anau and stayed directly in Milford Sound instead. There were so many amazing tracks in Milford Sound that I did not have time to explore.
Bao from the Bao Now food truck

Day 9: Day Trip to Milford Sound

On Day 9, I finally embarked on my much-anticipated journey from Te Anau to Milford Sound. Renowned as one of the most famous and breathtaking fjords in the world, Milford Sound is often admired for its towering cliffs, cascading waterfalls, lush rainforests, and tranquil waters. A trip to the South Island wouldn’t be complete without experiencing the stunning beauty of Milford Sound.

Day 9

Main activities:

  • Drove from Te Anau towards Milford Sound
  • Pitstop at Mirror Lake
  • Pre-booked cruise through Milford Sound (approx 1 hour)
  • Drove back to Te Anau
  • Stayed a second night at an Airbnb in Te Anau

Em’s Tips:

  • Pitstops: There are plenty of great spots to stop at on the way to or from Milford Sound from Te Anau. I only made a quick stop at Mirror Lake, as I didn’t want to risk being late for my cruise, but with a bit of planning, you can easily fit in more stops. I highly recommend visiting the Te Anau Visitor Centre for local tips on other hidden gems worth checking out along the way.
  • Driving to Milford Sound: On the way to Milford Sound, there’s a breathtaking moment when you emerge from the Homer Tunnel and you are suddenly enveloped by towering cliffs adorned with countless cascading waterfalls. The scene was so otherworldly, so overwhelmingly beautiful, that I couldn’t help but cry. Truly one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen, and that includes the Swiss and Italian Alps.
  • Pre-book a cruise: One of the best ways to enjoy the glory of Milford Sound is book a cruise. I highly suggest booking in advance, as places fill up during peak seasons. For day trips from Te Anau, midday cruises are ideal, as they afford you more time to enjoy scenic pitstops before reaching Milford Sound. While the journey from Te Anau takes approximately two hours, leave more time to account for traffic, pitstops, and navigating your way from the carpark to the wharf. For the cruise, I booked with Mitre Peak Cruises, but there are several options available.
  • Beware of sandflies: For some reason, Milford Sound is plagued by vicious sandflies. Bring insect repellent and close your car doors immediately, lest your car become infiltrated by these bugs with a painful bite. I visited during cooler weather, so I was covered in head to toe in hiking pants and a rain jacket… but in warmer months I would carefully consider my choice of attire!
  • Embrace the weather: When most people travel, we typically hope for sunny blue skies. However, Milford Sound is one of the few magical places in the world where you actually hope for rain! When it rains, you will see hundreds more waterfalls, and the permanent waterfalls will impress you with their sheer power.
  • If I had more time…: In hindsight, I really wished I spent more time to Milford Sound. The cruise only offered a mere taste of the mystical landscapes. Next time, I would stay directly in Milford Sound and venture on the multi-day Milford Track!

Waterfall along the fjord cruise

Day 10 to 15: Queenstown

The final leg of my trip took me to Queenstown, the ultimate destination for an adrenaline junkie like me! The town is brimming with cosy cafes, boutique shops, and lively bars, all framed by breathtaking mountain views. Beyond the town, Queenstown is a playground offering endless opportunities for adventure.

By this stage of the trip, I wanted to slow down and allow more time for reflection, so I intentionally scheduled fewer activities each day. If you’re short on time, you could easily fit these activities into a more condensed itinerary.

As I spent a good amount of time in Queenstown, I decided to stay in two different locations. The accommodation was an Airbnb located walking distance to the city centre — I wanted to stay closer to the hustle and bustle of Queenstown. The second accommodation, which was also my final accommodation for the trip, was closer to the lake — I wanted to enjoy serene lake views before I had to head home. Both locations had their own perks, it really just depends what you want to prioritise!

Day 10

Main activities:

  • Drove from Te Anau to Queenstown
  • Took the gondola up to Skyline Queenstown
  • Rode the luge three times!
  • Stayed at an Airbnb located close to the Queenstown city centre

Em’s Tips:

  • The driving route: The drive from Te Anau to Queenstown takes approximately 2 hours. As I left Te Anau later than expected, I did not make any pitstops. However, there are several places you might like to visit along the way.
  • Skyline Queenstown: To reach Bob’s Peak, where the luge and other activities such as paragliding, skydiving, and bungee jumping are based, you can either take the gondola from Queenstown or save money and hike up via the Tiki Trail (2.1km, 450m elevation, 1 to 1.5 hours). In the interests of time and the desire to conserve energy, I took the gondola up. Note: If you plan to hike the Ben Lomond Track, you can extend the hike by starting from the Tiki Trail. More on this below.
  • Riding the luge: If you’ve never ridden a luge before, it is like riding a mountain cart. I highly recommend you ride it at least 3 times, it is plenty of fun. One ride is too short, and you’ll find yourself wanting more! More information including tickets can be found on the official website. Make sure you check the opening hours.
  • Shopping in Queenstown: Queenstown is home to a delightfully wide range of adventure apparel stores (how dreamy!). Shops stocked styles that I hadn’t seen in store or online in Australia. Needless to say I bought several items that now form part of my regular hiking kit.
Luge!

Day 11

Main activities:

  • Hiked the Queenstown Hill Walkway (4.2km, 500m elevation gain, 1.5 to 2.5 hours return)
  • Tried the pies and famous Boston Creme Donut from FergBaker
  • More shopping!
  • Stayed a second night at an Airbnb close to the Queenstown city centre

Em’s Tips:

  • Queenstown Hill Walkway: More information on the trail can be found in this blogpost by My Queenstown Diary. Make note that the car park at the trail head is very small. You can try your luck with the carpark or nearby residential streets, however, many people choose to start from Queenstown town centre (additional 15 minute walk through residential streets, with an elevation gain of 200m over 800m). I coincidentally met a wonderful stranger-turned-friend called Daisy on the Queenstown Hill Walkway and we ended up climbing Ben Lomond together a few days later! Meeting Daisy was one of the highlights of my trips and why I adore solo travelling!
  • FergBaker: You cannot go to Queenstown without grabbing a pie and Boston Creme Donut from FergBaker. I went back multiple times during my trip because I wanted to try all the pies, and bear in mind, I am not usually a pie person! The pie crust is flaky and tender, with a hint of chewiness that holds each bite together without crumbling into chaos. Inside, the filling is perfectly cooked, rich, and fragrant. Every bite is truly a harmony of flavours and textures. Oh I can’t wait to eat those delicious pies again…
Forest part of the Queenstown Hill Walkway
Views from the top, over Queenstown

Day 12

Main activities:

  • Another visit to FergBaker
  • Canyon swing and Jet Boat adventure at Shotover River
  • Launched myself off the 109m canyon swing platform, twice
  • Enjoyed a thrilling jetboat adventure
  • Returned to Queenstown centre to try the famous Fergburger
  • Stayed a third night at an Airbnb close to the Queenstown city centre

Em’s Tips:

  • Canyon Swing Adventure: I booked with Shotover Canyon Swing and absolutely loved the experience. Since I had a car, I drove to the Shotover Jet River pick-up point. Needless to say, I didn’t tell my parents about it until after I jumped off the platform, twice. The first jump, I climbed my way upside down. The second jump, I asked the guides about the scariest way to jump and they suggested a gainer (running backflip). I tried but couldn’t get enough height, so the rope flung me across the valley. Hands down, voluntarily throwing yourself off the platform is the scariest way to do it.
  • Jetboat Ride: I didn’t plan to do the jetboat ride initially, but once I got to the river, I thought I might as well. Whilst it was a fun experience, personally I think you could skip this.
  • FergBurger: Everyone who goes to Queenstown recommends that you try FergBurger. It’s located directly next to FergBaker and there’s a good chance you’ll have to queue for some time… but you’ll understand why!

My first attempt (practically a bungee jump)
My tragic attempt at a gainer…

Day 13

Main activities:

  • Grabbed another pie from FergBaker
  • Enjoyed a private onsen (45 mins) and facial experience at Onsen Hot Pools Queenstown
  • Stayed a night at an Airbnb closer to Lake Wakatipu

Em’s Tips:

  • Onsen Hot Pools: I recommend booking early. Truthfully, this experience as a solo traveler was expensive! I booked the Ultimate Relaxation package (1 person soak + 2 hour massage/facial treatment) and it cost me AU$435 in 2022. Prices may be slightly lower in 2024, depending on the package you choose. Despite the cost, I absolutely loved it. It was exactly what I needed to wind down after venturing through South Island for 13 days.
Onsen Hot Pools

Day 14

Main activities:

  • Day trip to Glenorchy
  • Took pictures at the famous Glenorchy Wharf and Red Boatshed
  • Stayed a second night at an Airbnb closer to Lake Wakatipu

Em’s Tips:

  • The driving route: The drive from Queenstown to Glenorchy is absolutely stunning. The journey takes approximately 45 minutes. The road meanders along the edge of Lake Wakatipu, offering breathtaking views at every twist and turn. Every moment of the drive feels like a postcard brought to life.
  • Glenorchy: Glenorchy is a quaint, picturesque town surrounded by majestic mountains, ancient forests, and serene lakes. It’s no surprise it was chosen as a filming site for The Lord of the Rings. I actually spent most of my time at the Glenorchy Wharf and Red Boat Shed (I had two specific photos in mind that I wanted to recreate), but if you’re interested, this blogpost by My Queenstown Diary details plenty of activities you might like to include in your itinerary.
Glenorchy Shed
Glenorchy Wharf

Day 15

Main activities:

  • Hiked the Ben Lomond Track, starting from the Tiki Trail, with my new friend Daisy (14km, approximately 8 hours return)!
  • Rewarded ourselves with some arepas and live music in town
  • Stayed a third and final night at an Airbnb closer to Lake Wakatipu

Em’s Tips:

  • Ben Lomond Track: Here is a great blogpost from My Queenstown Diary describing the Ben Lomond Track. I absolutely loved this hike! Highly recommend adding the Tiki Trail if you have the time and energy. Daisy was super knowledgeable in local vegetation and wildlife, so I was blessed with her lovely commentary as we hiked!
  • Weather conditions: Queenstown weather can be very unpredictable! I had spoken to several locals in the lead up to the hike, who taught me how to read weather maps, and they mentioned it might be sketchy to hike that day as it was forecast to rain. I almost canned this hike! In the end, the weather turned out beautifully. We did cop a brief period of snow, such that it was icy and freezing at the summit, but that only made the experience 10x better!
  • Before you summit: When you reach the Ben Lomond Saddle, it is critical that you reassess whether it is safe to summit. The final climb takes about one hour. The summit was clear when we started to ascend, but by the time we reached the summit it was completely foggy. We couldn’t see anything! We enjoyed a brief snack but had to head back down shortly after as it was absolutely freezing. That’s why it’s so important to pack beanies, gloves, and layers when hiking in May/June.
Admiring Ben from below
The final ascent
Icy at the summit!

Day 16: Fly from Queenstown to Sydney

Alas, all good things must come to an end. Day 16 was home time. After spending the morning reading and journaling in a cafe, reflecting on the trip of a lifetime, it was time to catch a quick 3 hour flight back home to Sydney. You bet your bottom dollar I cried on the flight home.

It was a bittersweet goodbye for now, but not forever.

Bittersweet end to a trip of a lifetime. At least you can enjoy mountain views whilst you wait for the plane!

Some Things You Might Want to Know

(because I wanted to know too)

Before I went on this trip, my google history looks something like:

  • “Is it good to go to New Zealand in May?”
  • “What do I need to pack when I hike in New Zealand in May?”
  • “Best car hire company in South Island New Zealand”
  • “Cost of petrol in New Zealand”
  • “Average temperature in New Zealand in May”

You’re probably interested in the same, so below are my answers (and more) based on my experience.

Is May a good time to visit South Island?

Short answer, absolutely. I have visited South Island at the end of May and from mid to end of November. Whilst I loved both trips, I preferred the weather conditions and scenery when I visited in May. In May, the weather is indeed colder (which I personally adore for hiking), but you get to enjoy beautiful snow-capped mountain views! In mid November, the snow has melted (except at Mount Cook and other glaciers).

By mid-June, snowfall often becomes heavier making hiking more challenging and potentially hazardous. Hiking during winter requires proper experience, knowledge of alpine conditions, and the right gear to navigate icy paths and unpredictable weather safely. That is why I found May and early June to be the perfect time to hike. The tracks are not yet covered in snow, but at higher elevations, you may enjoy a sprinkling of snow.

If you are someone who does not cope well with the cold, perhaps the warmer months (November – February) may be a more ideal time for you to visit.

Do I Need Hiking Boots?

If you’re hiking during the warmer months, standard trail runners or sneakers should suffice. However, in cooler months, where snow might appear at the summit or along the track, I strongly recommend investing in a good pair of hiking boots. More generally, waterproof hiking boots are a great choice, as they allow you to focus less on keeping your shoes and socks clean, and more on fully immersing yourself in the experience of nature.

Personally, I also prefer the extra ankle support and grip offered by hiking boots. For reference, it was already icy at the summit of Ben Lomond in early June, and even when I hiked to Mueller Hut in November, I had to climb through shin deep snow in some sections of the trail.

I own the Salomon Women’s X Ultra 4 MID GTX W and they have kept my feet/ankles safe hiking through Norway and New Zealand trails (twice), knee deep snow in the Swiss Alps, rocky and technical terrains in the Italian Alps, as well as arid Aussie bushland. Despite being soaked in sweat, dirt, mud, snow, and even cow dung, they are still going strong with no visible signs of damage.

Admittedly, these hiking boots weren’t cheap. They retail for AU$306 on Amazon, but you can get them for AU$279.99 on Kathmandu if you live in Australia. Honestly, you could easily buy a cheaper pair, from stores like Decathlon or Anaconda, if you aren’t ready to make the financial investment. Although, I suggest you pick something waterproof to extend the longevity of your shoes and socks.

What else do I need to pack for Autumn hikes?

I actually plan to write a whole other blogpost on this topic, which I will link once it has published. Watch this space!

Best Car Hire Company in South Island?

Honestly, I can’t tell you which company is the best. I can only mention that I’ve booked with Hertz during this trip and with Ezi-car on a subsequent trip. Both companies had pick-up/drop-off within the airport terminal, which was extremely convenient. I went with Hertz the first time because it was a well-known global company, and I wanted something reliable for my first solo trip. Also, as I had only booked the trip one month out from departure, all the budget options were fully booked. However, I booked with Ezi-car on the second solo trip, and it was just as reliable but considerably cheaper.

My only recommendation, which you might disagree with, is to get the premium car insurance if you plan to do hikes that can only be reached via unsealed roads. Both trips, I managed to chip my windscreen with stray rocks!

Alpine whether be like that sometimes…

As I mentioned earlier, alpine weather can be really unpredictable. Some days, my weather app would say it was forecast to rain but it was sunny all day. Some days, it would state the weather was sunny all day, but it ended up raining. Especially in May/June, make sure you always have some warm layers with you (i.e., a fleece and/or rainproof jacket). It’s better to be safe than sorry! When I visited, it averaged around 10-13°C during the day time, and about 2-5°C at night time. This did vary slightly depending on my location. For example, Mount Cook was much cooler at night!

Most days, I wore at least a Uniqlo heat tech or a long sleeve shirt. I usually carried a fleece pullover and a windproof jacket with me. I often found myself reaching for my snowboard jacket as an added layer. I mostly wore fleece lined trackies when I wasn’t hiking, and I always had a beanie and gloves with me.

More FAQ Later.

Judging by the length of this post, you can tell how much I enjoyed writing about my New Zealand adventure. It was like I was reliving the journey all over again! There is so much more information to unpack, so stay tuned for more posts on:

  • What to pack when hiking alpine environments
  • Tips when solo travelling in South Island
  • The cost of solo travelling through South Island

Ko ia kāhore nei i rapu, tē kitea” (Māori)

He who does not seek will not find (English)

I hope you get to experience the beautiful South Island for yourself one day! I promise, it will open your soul and mind to something truly otherworldly.

Mount Cook in all its glory

If this post was helpful, if you have any questions, or updated information, leave a comment below —I’d love to hear from you!

Safe travels and happy adventuring!

Emma

Writer & Overthinker


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One response to “Solo Road Trip in New Zealand: 16-Days in South Island”

  1. […] I’ve only ever solo travelled in New Zealand (work trips around Australia don’t really count), so my tips are naturally shaped by these […]